Ulster final

A special day in the North

People and Places
Michael Commins

OUTSIDE the old-fashioned town of Granard, the long province of Leinster, which dips down to Kilkenny and Wexford, finally runs out territory. You hit the Cavan border and the mind throws a switch into another world. This is the land of Ulster, of warriors bold and ancient stories that go back into the mists of time. From the days of Henry Joy McCracken, the Ulster Presbyterian whose men fought with the Irish in the 1798 uprising, to the extraordinary fact that almost a third of all American Presidents have roots in this remarkable province, a journey through Ulster is, by both nature and history, a journey into the heart of our island country.
Last Sunday week, I attended my first Ulster Final in Clones. Swinging right at Butlersbridge, one becomes rightly aware of the changing landscape, the mountains to the north west, and the imminent arrival at the ‘Border’ where Fermanagh pushes its toe into the Cavan shoulder.
The road signs change and you also get a sense of land husbandry of a different nature as you view the farms of south Ulster. This is real farming country, an area where traditions mix and collide. In the not-too-distant past, it too knew the tensions of ‘The Troubles’ but was never as embroiled as Belfast or Derry or South Armagh.
Hardly three miles along the road and you cross into County Monaghan on the outskirts of Clones town. A short stroll and you arrive in the Diamond. It is a strange fact of history that many towns in Ulster tend to have diamonds while the southern towns have squares.
Within moments you are caught up in the atmosphere of Ulster Final Day. The colour is everywhere, the flags and buntings, the gentle banter between the fans. Today, it is the turn of Armagh and Fermanagh to share the limelight. Clones has been home to Armagh on so many occasions in the last decade that they could nearly claim squatters’ rights. But it is Fermanagh who are generating most of the excitement. The only team never to have won an Ulster Final are in town.
You can sense the childlike expectancy that comes with being near the summit with the hope of catching a glimpse of the Promised Land. It is hard to be neutral on days like this.
Days in the sunshine for the Cinderella County have been few and far between. Why, it is even a fact that the great commentator Micheál O’Hehir covered matches involving all other 31 counties before he finally got to commentate on the last one of them all …. Fermanagh.
A sea of people move down the narrow main street and up the hill by the beautiful church which dominates the town skyline. The pubs are doing a roaring trade and the names on the showboards over the doors confirm that you truly are in the northern territories. All around you are assailed by the accents of the northlands. This is one day that a western accent is almost as rare as a corncrake in Dublin.
St Tiernach’s Park is compact and perfect for atmosphere. The big hill is a sea of banners and there’s a wonderful sense of occasion. Strangely, such atmosphere is seldom found to the same extent at Connacht Finals which are more subdued and less demonstrative affairs. The anthem is given total respect and sung with fervour here in Clones.
Together with my son Ger and friend Martin Walshe from Roscommon, we settle back on the O’Duffy Terrace for the big game. Right in the heart of supporters from Armagh and Fermanagh, it is a brilliant experience. Fermanagh survive the early Armagh onslaught and are very much in the game at the interval. But an early goal on the restart followed by some points and suddenly the boys from the County Armagh are eight clear. The game looks as good as over.
But them comes that stirring Fermanagh revival that, whatever happens in the replay (this is being written a few days before that game) will go into the annals of Fermanagh folklore. Slowly but surely they close the gap.
In those last tantalising ten minutes, all sense of neutrality goes out the window. I’m roaring Fermanagh home as we all get caught up in the magic of the occasion. Three down, two down, one down, time almost up. Will he blow the final whistle? One last chance, here they come again, Marty McGrath to Sean Doherty, lets fly and from our perfect vantage point behind the goal, we cheer it home. A draw. Magic in Clones. I hug the two Armagh girls beside me. Even they had to admit Fermanagh deserved another day.
Out they spill in their thousands, down the hill and back towards the Diamond. An incredible sight, part of what we are, the old heartbeat of a people at ease with themselves and their culture.
Two miles out from Clones on the way home and in that part of Fermanagh that lies between counties Monaghan and Cavan, we see another part of the tradition of the island. Coming towards us is a small Orange Parade with its marching band. Men wearing the sash and enjoying their annual celebration too. They return friendly smiles and waves as we pass by. Their local church closeby is where they’ll retire for the service. It is good to see that peace has returned to the valley once more.
Only Thurles on Munster Hurling Final days can compare with the kind of atmosphere I experienced in Clones. Croke Park is a great stadium but there is something about the ‘local’ and homely atmosphere of Thurles and Clones that is closer to the grassroots of the GAA and its people. It a part of you and you a part of it. I made a promise to my heart to return to Clones again. Aye, surely.

The Rose of Castlerea
GRAINNE Owens from Ballintubber in Co Roscommon was crowned Rose of Castlerea in recent days. She was a popular winner and had plenty of Mayo fans to cheer her on in Castlerea on the night. The compere for the show was Gerry Glennon from Mid-West Radio.
The festival takes its name from the song made popular by Brendan Shine a good many years ago. It was written by Claremorris-based John Duggan who also hosts a weekly show on Mid-West.

True blues in Murrisk
IT may be a long way to Tipperary but expect to see the blue and gold flag of the Premier County on display outside the home of Michael O’Toole in Thornhill, Murrisk. Michael was down in Limerick for the recent Munster hurling final and will be heading to Croke Park for the All-Ireland hurling semi-final in August. His late mother, Sal, was a native of Mullinahone in Tipperary and the family are true blue Tipperary supporters when it comes to the hurling scene. Johnny will also be lending his support to the Tipp men in their bid for All-Ireland honours.

Words to ponder
FEW things tend more to alienate friendship than a want of punctuality in our engagements. I have known the breach of a promise to dine or sup to break up more than one intimacy - William Hazlitt.