FOOD: Slow-cooked venison casserole

One morning last week, a lovely surprise lamb appeared at its mother’s side on our organic farm at the Deerpark, not far from Westport. This was neither planned nor expected. We lamb our black-faced mountain ewes outside, old school, late in April, when one hopes for fair weather and green grass. Exactly how this lamb came to be will always remain a mystery, but it will be loved and appreciated forever.
Cooking is a bit like that. When you bring together certain elements, you might anticipate a particular outcome, but cooking often comes with its own unexpected outcomes! But differences in taste and texture are to be celebrated – cooking might bring involve the odd mistake and some surprises, but us kitchen lovers always believe we are learning and moving forward.
This April, we will open Cabots Westport Cookery School at our organic farm just outside Westport, overlooking Kinlooey Lough, and we’ll begin by inviting specialists in their fields to show and share their skills. We will celebrate difference on all levels, and whether we learn by our successes or our mistakes we will believe we are moving forward. Hang on for the ride!
Driven by the increasing numbers of deer that necessitate culling and harvesting, venison is becoming more and more available, affordable and popular in our shops and kitchens. This lean meat is low in fat and full of flavour. Previous inexperience may have led to venison hanging for too long, creating overbearing, gamey flavours, but nowadays the supply lines ensure the meat is fresh and vibrant.

VENISON CASSEROLE
The venison in this basic casserole dish benefits from long, slow cooking; the meat falls apart, and the gravy thickens around the combined flavours.

What you need
2.5kg venison shoulder, diced
2, medium white onions, peeled and diced
4 garlic cloves crushed
500g chestnut mushrooms, halved
4 smoked rashers, chopped
2 ½ glasses red wine
6 rosemary or thyme sprigs
25g butter
40g flour
3 tbsp redcurrant jelly
Olive oil
Handful of fresh redcurrants, to decorate
1 vegetable stock cube
Seasoning

What you do
Melt the butter and and a tablespoon of oil in a heavy casserole dish over a medium heat then add the onions and fry until well softened. (You want clear and translucent, not browned.) Add the mushrooms, garlic and bacon and cook for another two to three minutes.
Warm a glug of oil in a separate frying pan, then brown the meat in this, handful by handful, over a medium high heat, adding a good sprinkling of salt each time. This just crisps up the meat edges and adds texture and taste.
When all the meat is browned, pour in the red wine, redcurrant jelly, stock cube, about 400ml of water and give the lot a good seasoning. Turn the heat up and bring to a rolling boil, making sure your stirring combines all the elements. Now place the lid on the pan and allow simmer gently for 90 minutes on low heat.
In a separate saucepan placed over a medium heat, melt a knob of butter and stir in the flour. As it cooks out add juice from the casserole pot to create a runny sludge! Now add as much as you need back to the casserole pot to thicken the sauce to your liking. It takes 10-18 minutes for the thickening to be fully complete.
Serve with mash or lovely new potatoes. Vibrant green spinach is a great addition too. Use the sprigs of rosemary or thyme and the fresh redcurrants to garnish the dish.

— Redmond

• For information on Cabots Westport Cookery School’s three-weekend course this April email reddycabot@gmail.com.

Sandra and Redmond Cabot live in Lanmore, outside Westport, with their children, Penny and Louis. Fresh, seasonal foods are their passion – shopping at country markets, growing their own veg and producing their own dips and sauces for sale.