The Bordeaux renaissance

ON THE UP AGAIN Vineyards of the Bordeaux wine region of Blaye.

Wine

Philip Dunne

Bordeaux, a port city on the Garonne River in the Gironde department of south-west France is surrounded by some of the most sought-after land in the world for wine growers. The region’s wine has had its share of ups and downs recently, however.  

Back in March, China’s second-richest man – Jack Ma – emptied his piggy bank, snapping up a number of crates of a rare vintage Chateau Lafite Rothschild at €25,000 per bottle. Not sufficiently content with taking the golden grape juice back home to the Far East, Mr Ma acquired the elegant 16th-century estate Chateau de Sours, from the idyllic Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux, for a modest €15 million.

An inexpensive substitute, from an Irish family, is Chateau McCarthy centred in St Estephe in Bordeaux, retailing at €23 in good wine shops around Ireland.

The ultra-fine blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes (among a few others harvested), fermented and decanted into a 750ml bottle provide much more than the palate sensation with friends or family spent over a fire on a cold winters evening. Bordeaux has been, and continues to be (with more modesty nowadays), a symbol of status, wealth, and superiority.

To save misinterpretation, there is no question the wine from Bordeaux is stylish and elegant, with the ability to provide an experience like no other on the palate. Subtle red and black fruit dominate with a generally long finish and mouthfeel, soft and sophisticated, smooth and refined. Bordeaux wines, in their own right, are true consistent performers in this now competitive market.

However, Bordeaux’s fame is without question its greatest downfall. Wine buyers rely heavily on the good vintages (the best years for wine growing conditions incorporating climate). Between 2001 and 2006, Bordeaux’s €2 billion annual economy fell by a massive 20 percent. And it continued to struggle – until now.

The 2015 harvest for Bordeaux wine has been recognised by winemakers, industry experts and journalists as one of the best the region has ever seen. The pre-purchasing of wine by auctioneers and wine buyers worldwide (known as ‘En Primeur’ in Bordeaux) has been the highest recorded since the year 2000 – and it’s not just the Chinese who want a piece of the cake, Americans, Brits and many here in Ireland recognise the potential of these wines.

Bordeaux’s renaissance looks set to continue. The opening of an €80 million wine theme park  – ‘La Cité du Vin’, complete with a tipsy boat ride – near the region’s prime vineyards is testament that no matter how hard the old lady of the wine world gets knocked back, she will never stay down.

Philip Dunne is Head Sommelier at Ashford Castle, Cong. Trained by the Court of Master Sommeliers, he is part of the team voted the Best Wine Experience in Ireland 2016 at the Restaurant Association Awards in Ireland.