FOOD: Make your fish fillets sing

MANY childhood memories of fish tend to be a bit on the stinky side! There are happier memories of fresh mackerel catches during the summer or trout caught here in the west, but overall, the impression of fresh fish from the regular shops was not the best.
Back then everyone seemed to fry all fish (and well!), smoke and smells swirling around the kitchen from the stove. Despite being an island nation, we did not always have access to our rich maritime assets, and what we did get, we fried to bejaysus!
Nowadays, that has all changed. We steam fillets, easily rustle up shellfish dishes or delicately bake fish.
The key is to start with fresh produce. Easy to say, but actually freshness is the best thing going for a fish dish. Try working with a bit of fish slightly on the turn, and you’re on a losing wicket. Fresh fish requires very little to show it off. Simple ingredients like capers, lemon, dill and fennel work so well.
Here are two ways I love to cook fish. The first is a blend of common sense and inspiration from others, the other is my own method, developed after years of happy mishaps.

Steamed hake in oven parcels
(Serves 2)

I don’t know why more people don’t steam or bake fish in parcels in the oven. Use tinfoil, greaseproof paper, or even oven dishes with lids. It’s so simple. Assemble good ingredients, place together, cover, and let the oven do the work. Easy – and no smokey kitchen!

What you need
• 2 hake fillets, 8 inches long
• 1 fennel bulb, with green top
• 2 ripe tomatoes
• 80g butter
• Seasoning
• Grease-proof paper
• A handful of wild garlic for garnish (optional)

What you do
Leave the skin on your fillets (wash first if required). Lay out two pieces of greaseproof paper about 12 inches long and 6 inches wide, and place one fillet, skin down, in the centre of each. Season each fillet.
Chop and slice the fennel well, likewise the tomato. Mix together and spread this mixture evenly over the fish, then lay some butter knobs on top.
Simply fold over the grease-proof paper, and twist the ends, until a parcel is formed and holds. It’s as simple as that. Cook for 18 minutes in preheated 180°c oven.
Once cooked, plate up and, if you can get your hands on some, place fronds of wild garlic (in season now) on top of each fillet. Serve with a chickpea and chopped pepper mix for a light meal, or with sweet potato wedges and green peas for something a little more substantial.

Fried sea bass fillets with capers and butter
(Serves 4)

This method, which starts with frying and finishes with steaming, is good for achieving a crispy skin while keeping the flesh succulent and moist. It can be used with a variety of fish.

What you need
• 4 sea bass fillets
• 4 tbsp capers
• 50ml water
• butter
• olive oil
• ½ lemon for squeezing
• Seasoning

What you do
Remove the fish from the fridge and allow it come to room temperature on a plate for ten minutes. (Ensure no cats are around!)
Allow a large, flat frying pan to heat up over a high heat, then give it a good glug of olive oil and one tablespoon of butter. Straight away, quickly salt your fish and place the fillets skin down. After the first sizzles reduce the heat to medium-hot and allow the skin to colour and get crispy. This will take about four minutes.
Turn the heat up high again and add 50ml of water. Cover the pan with a lid and allow the rising steam to come back down off the lid and delicately cook all the white flesh above the crisped skin. After one minute add the capers, squeeze in the juice of half lemon, add another knob of butter and leave the sauce to reduce for a minute or two. Season.
Season and plate up with potatoes and fresh greens, spooning the sauce from the pan over the fish. Enjoy!