Croagh Patrick Hertage Trail Festival: A wonderful walk in prospect

Spring. If we could possibly call the present shape of weather such a thing. Winter, ever dragging her heels in this part of the world, can sometimes be dispiriting enough to keep us confined within our four walls.
On the other hand, with these longer evenings and new colour filling warmer days, there is no time like the present to pull on those walking boots, to get out there and explore our own corner of this lovely country.
Nor have we ever before been blessed with such quantity and quality of walking trails. The Mayo catalogue of these continues to expand, with the recent approval by Sport Ireland of the Newtown Forest Loop and Kilmaine’s own Nature Trail.
There remains much room for growth, with many under-explored areas of County Mayo yet to be added to the tourist itinerary. Those worried about the possible impact of tourism on rural communities can be encouraged by the wide uptake of Leave No Trace principles, where responsible visitors take with them nothing but memories and leave behind nothing but footprints.
It was with a sense of anticipation that we hit the final section of the Croagh Patrick Heritage Trail, which runs along the flank of Croagh Patrick from Prospect to Murrisk.
When we walked this same route on a previous occasion we slipped up by taking only one car, which meant we had to retrace our steps and walk back to where we had parked. Make no mistake: this is no gentle stroll or mere meditative amble, and the return hike even less so! Sport Ireland has these few miles graded as ‘strenuous’. Perhaps that is stretching the matter a little.
The initial path from Prospect is pleasant enough, where an ancient trackway has been partly washed out by winter floods, though enough remains to grant a firm footing. Natural quartzite walls create a sense of seclusion along this lower section, while the clearwater stream that tumbles seaward provides musical accompaniment.
The occasional glimpse of expansive slopes above and below gives just a hint of what is to come. These hills are picked clean by that hardy breed of sheep preferred by farmers in the west, that somehow thrives in the most desolate places on a diet of fresh air and heather.
A raven was our sole companion for the first mile. He flew overhead, offering his own repetitive commentary through a range of deep and guttural croaks. His means of living must likewise be meagre. A diet of carrion and heather beetles keeps him alive, and if all else fails it is only a short flight to the coast where creatures to eat can be found along the line of low tide.
On turning off that stony path we surmounted a stile and began the steep climb through thick heather, where the rain found us. With a more than a remnant of winter wind, it drove water into our coats to decry the boasts of those who make walking gear for a living. ‘Waterproof’ and ‘Breatheable’ quickly became nothing like it. Wellington boots and unprotected pockets filled from the deluge. That wind cut through clothing ‘like a new knife’, as they say. It was hardly a day for being out on the hill.
Despite the challenging conditions, we found this section of the Croagh Patrick Heritage Trail compelling, with enough in the way of archaeological and historical features to have us planning an early return – once things have dried up a bit. There is also huge potential for the naturalist, with the return of summer migrant bird species imminent (wheatear will be first) and the seasonal bloom of bog and moorland flowers.
And then of course we have that view, initially of distant fields of green nestled between ancient, wooded hills and, as we rounded the side of Croagh Patrick, of Clew Bay even as far as Achill, the grey-blue of that great expanse marked with streaks of azure, with indigo tints, and every shade between.
We were thankful of the well-placed waymarks, which kept us on the right path. It would be an easy thing to lose one’s unguided way up there, and especially so with low cloud spawning one rainstorm after another.

Walking festival
ON April 27 the Croagh Patrick Heritage Trail team will hold their annual walking festival along this very path, with proceeds going to Croí, the west of Ireland cardiac and stroke charity. Following the success of the 2023 festival, the day will begin in Aghagower and finish about 20k west, in the welcoming village of Murrisk.
It should be a great day out. So come on, limber up, dig out those boots. Up those hills with you! See you there.

Michael Kingdon, a naturalist and keen fisherman, lives on the shores of Lough Carra, Co Mayo.