Is organic wine the future?

WINE Sommelier Philip Dunne on whether organic wine tastes better, and which bottles to look for

Wine

Philip Dunne

When organic wines first appeared on the market in the 1980s, only a handful of niche producers dedicated growing space to organic production. However, organic wines have been steadily gaining popularity ever since.

Sulphites are commonly used by many producers to preserve wine. However, when wine is labeled ‘organic’ you can take it that the application of this chemical is minimal to zero. According to recent research, 4 percent of people in Ireland are allergic to sulphites – if you are among them, look out for the widening range of wines that are labelled ‘sulphite free’ on the back of the bottle.

Organic certification for wine can only come from a third-party organisation, which carries out an annual inspection to ensure that the vineyard is complying with the strict regulations of the certifying body and the department of agriculture.

Does organic wine taste better than traditional wine? Well, yes in fact, according to a major recent study conducted by the University of California, which assessed expert reviews of 74,000 wines from three of the world’s most notable wine-rating magazines.

The grape varieties assessed include favourites, such as Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. It was concluded that the organic wines, labelled as ‘eco-certified’, rated 4.1 points above their non-organic counterparts, based on a score of 100.

If you are intrigued by the concept of organic wine, there are some incredible importers in Ireland, such as Le Caveau in Kilkenny, with over 60 wines in their portfolio with the valued certification. One of my favourites is the delicious Chaume Arnaud Côtes du Rhône Grenache/Syrah blend – great value at just under €15. If you prefer white wine, another cracker is the Walnut Block ‘Collectables’ Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand.

Philip Dunne is Head Sommelier at Ashford Castle, Cong. Trained by the Court of Master Sommeliers, he is part of the team voted the Best Wine Experience in Ireland 2016 at the Restaurant Association Awards in Ireland.

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