The Norman Rockwell Museum A stroll in New England Denise Horan THINK Boston. What comes to mind? The JFK Museum. The Boston Red Sox. The Common. Cheers bar. The Boston Celtics. Macy’s.
Now think again. This time outside the box, outside the ordinary – and well outside the city limits. Think English country grandeur meets middle American simplicity – with a double measure of culture thrown in. Think a lot of open road, enough whingers to make a large playschool community seem adult, and acres of dodgy wallpaper. All of that and a whole lot of fun. Chances are you’re still a long way off conjuring up an accurate image of what our group sampled two weeks ago in Berkshire County and broader Massachusetts, after leaving Boston on arrival aboard the first ever flight there from Ireland West Airport Knock.
So let me assist your imagination.
To say we were none-too-impressed when we first saw the itinerary credits us with far too much politeness. Those of us who had previously been to Boston and were looking forward to sampling once more its walkability, its friendliness, its beautiful buildings, and the relaxed pace that sets it apart from most other cities were particularly put out. We’ll have to skip a museum or three, we resolved, with all the childishness of, well, children.
The curious thing about not being a child anymore though is that the novelty of being childish wears off quickly. Either that or the reality of being an adult and the behavioural expectations it carries with it takes hold. In any case, while some of the stops on the three-day itinerary were avoided, in the end it was for no reason other than time constraints and maybe a little tiredness. The revolt we promised died peacefully in the New England humidity. In its place came acceptance and a warm embrace of the wonder we were about to encounter.
And there was much at which to wonder. It began in Eastover, a 1,000-acre country estate in the town of Stockbridge, two-and-a-half hours from the metropolis of Boston (and equidistant from New York, as it happens). Arriving at night time, the house itself looked impressive, but bleary-eyed after our long journey, it was the promise of ‘tea and cookies’ from hostess and owner Ticki Windsor that most caught our attention.
The following morning, however, the splendour of the resort was revealed in all its glory in the warm sunshine, as we took a safari ride through its rolling green fields, marvelling at its vastness and its manicured upkeep, before arriving at one of its unique boasts – a herd of bison. Bison is a type of buffalo – a particularly ugly type – which is rare now in North America, with only pure-bred herds still in existence, and Eastover is one of the few places that has such a herd.
Apart from the animals and the grounds, the buildings on the resort’s vast acreage also contain plenty to look at, including a huge collection of American Civil War memorabilia, gathered by Ms Windsor’s late father throughout his life. A large dining hall, which regularly plays host to weddings and other convivial gatherings, is worth more than a second glance, if only for the fact that its rafters are adorned with antique carriages, while indoor and outdoor swimming pools add a touch of luxury to a resort that otherwise resists any nod towards decadence. Indeed, the most appealing part of the whole package that is Eastover is its lack of pretentiousness. Suited butlers, prim receptionists and robotic waiters are all foregone in favour of homely, comfortably-dressed and relaxed-mannered staff. And the estate’s ambience is grounded in that lack of formality.
On bidding farewell to the hospitable Ms Windsor, we hopped aboard our Peter Pan (a Massachusetts coach company) bus and headed for the Norman Rockwell Museum in Stockbridge, home town of the famous painter and illustrator who designed 329 covers for the Saturday Evening Post over the course of four decades. The museum contains hundreds of original paintings, along with framed copies of each and every Post cover. The enthusiastic Kim Rawson was our tour guide, eagerly taking us through the stages of Rockwell’s lengthy career and pointing out various quirks of style and form in particular works. Adjacent to the museum building is Rockwell’s studio, which was moved in its entirety from his home and re-produced, exactly as it was at the time of his death in 1978, in its new building. Adding to the feeling of authenticity in the studio is a lady, now acting as a guide, who modelled for some of his paintings and who is happy to answer questions about the artist’s life and work. His is a wonderful story and his work that of a man with rare genius. The museum, for this writer, does justice to both.
After some further sight-seeing, our evening meal took us back to Stockbridge to the old world-style Red Lion Inn, which has been providing food and accommodation in Berkshire County continuously since the 18th century. Being of the foodie variety whose list of wouldn’t-touch-in-a-fit foods is ten times the length of your average restaurant menu, I was impressed to find something to suit me in all three courses on offer. Suffice it to say, therefore, that the menu was wide-ranging and extensive and also met with the absolute approval of those among us with more adventurous palates than mine (everyone).
An overnight stay in the luxurious Crowne Plaza Hotel In Pittsfield precipitated a breakfast reception with the Mayor of Pittsfield, James Ruberto, the following morning. Pittsfield, of course, is twinned with Ballina, a relationship which was spoken of with great warmth by the mayor, and some members of the local twinning committee (who are planning an autumn trip to the north Mayo capital) also came out to greet us (including Kevin Cahill, a native of Ballina, who returned to Knock on the same flight as us).
On leaving Pittsfield, we travelled back towards Boston, taking in the Sterling and Francine Clark Institute in Williamstown, before journeying on to the town we had all been waiting for – Salem, with its witch museum! While all of the other museums had plenty to recommend them, the witch museum had an unrivalled curiosity value and we filed in eager to see what was on offer.
The story of the Witches of Salem is one we’ve all heard of, but few probably know the specifics, other than fans of the Daniel Day-Lewis movie, ‘The Crucible’, which is based on the happenings of 1692, when 19 people were tried and later hanged in the town for witchcraft. It is a fascinating story, brought to life vividly and movingly in the museum auditorium where the story is narrated as a series of replica scenes – using wax models – come into focus. Again, the excellent staff, who speak with great feeling about the tragic episode, contribute much to the museum experience.
Dinner in the beautiful Hawthorne Hotel across the road was another treat, served in the downstairs room which was designed to resemble a ship’s cabin. O’Neill’s Bar (an Irish bar complete with an Athenry barman) was, naturally, the hostelry of choice later that evening as we gathered for our last night of New England entertainment.
The following morning, it was back on the bus with our driver, Stephen, to be whisked to the centre of Boston, for a few hours of browsing, sight-seeing and shopping in the warm sunshine. Macy’s, of course, was the big attraction, but most also found time for a leisurely stroll through glorious Boston Common.
A 9pm (local time) departure from Logan Airport brought us back to Ireland West Airport Knock just before 8am (Irish time) the following morning, and it was then that the value of being only 45 minutes from the airport really hit home. When you haven’t slept all night, the efficiency and proximity of the Knock service is appreciated more than ever.
The advent of transatlantic flights from Knock is a huge boost to the west of Ireland and its people. Accustomed to being removed from most things, this service now gives us more convenient access to the States than anywhere else in the country, I would venture. At long last, an advantage over our east coast neighbours!
Scottish airline company, flyglobespan, have shown great faith in Knock and have invested a lot of money in this venture, but their faith and investment will doubtless be repaid. The chances of this transatlantic service not being a success are up there with the likelihood of Kerry winning an All-Ireland hurling title.
And with the excellent airport staff – always so friendly, helpful and efficient – there is an added incentive for people to do their travelling through Knock. It is my belief that when a disparate group of people travels together abroad, the success or otherwise of the experience depends on one single factor more than any other – the person leading the group. With the endlessly patient, pleasant and ever-smiling Orla Gibney, Marketing and Promotions Executive at Knock Airport, as our leader it is little wonder that the experience was an overwhelmingly positive one.
Up to a fortnight ago, my view of Boston was a narrow one. I thought I had seen it all there, but looking beyond the obvious hadn’t occurred to me. In my future travels, I think it will.
Denise Horan was a member of a media delegation that travelled to Boston as guests of Ireland West Airport Knock
