It had been ten years since my last visit to Celtic Park. Mayo took the spoils that day, holding off a spirited second-half Derry comeback led by James Kielt to seal victory with a goal from Mikie Sweeney.

Aidan O’Shea played inside that day too, helping himself to two scores. While we didn’t relegate Derry then, we stamped on their fingers before Dublin finished the job a week later.

Last Sunday, we held off a similar fightback, led by the irrepressible Conor Glass, to condemn Paddy Tally’s side to an uncertain Division 2 future.

PHOTOS: Action snaps from Mayo beating Derry in Celtic Park

If it takes them as long to recover this time, we won’t see the Walled City again for a while, and that would be a real shame.

Derry is a special city, compact yet layered with history. Within and beyond its 400-year-old walls lies a complex past of conflict and resilience. We had really been looking forward to exploring.

At times, we wondered if we’d ever get there; our cross-country route via a planned detour to Enniskillen provided unexpected diversions: cars, tractors, cyclists, some spectacular bridges, sheep, horses, hills, stomach-churning dips, and even two geese locked in a furious argument in the middle of the road somewhere near Drumskinny.

It was with relief that we pulled the handbrake outside our accommodation, even if the white, and blue kerbstones and ‘F**k the IRA’ graffiti set an ominous tone. We were later to learn that city centre has a very small Protestant population of around 500 these days, located near Craigavon Bridge. On Saturday, that enclave’s population swelled to 503.

SCARS OF THE PAST

What strikes you first about Derry is the warmth of its people. We took a walking tour with the engaging Declan from Martin McCrossan Tours, who guided us through the city’s history from its foundation by St Colmcille’s in the sixth century, to the British colonisation and plantation, the Flight of the Earls, the Irish Rebellion and the Siege of Derry.

READ: Aidan O'Shea's record breaking career for Mayo

The human cost of these conflicts was high, with families seeking refuge within the walls reduced to eating mice and rats to survive. Later, The Troubles left deep scars, as the working-class Bogside community and fought gerrymandering and discrimination at huge personal cost.

A walk around the Bogside is an essential part of any visit to Derry. Death is everywhere, and an incredible series of murals immortalise those lost, including children and hunger strikers. The most freshly sprayed portrays the unmistakable daughter of Derry, Nell McCafferty.

The most poignant mural portrays the body of Jackie Duddy being carried away on Bloody Sunday, led by Fr Edward Daly waving a white handkerchief.

For those of us in the south, largely sheltered from the realities of The Troubles, the effects of the PTSD and intergenerational trauma ingrained in communities like this remain difficult to comprehend. They don’t teach that in school.

Another thing we learned was how bloody cold it is above on those walls, where the wind would split you in two. It was a relief to return to ground level and enjoy some of the city’s hospitality, before a nightcap and a bedtime episode or two of ‘Derry Girls’.

When in Rome, and all that. Anyway, back to the football.

NEW RULES, NEW ENERGY

If you’d told me at halftime in Armagh 23 days ago that Mayo might be in a league final, I’d have happily eaten my bobble hat. Yet, remarkably, there’s now a real chance of a trip to Croke Park on Mother’s Day, a possibility that felt remote mere weeks ago.

It is therefore to the credit of the team and management that our meekness against Galway serves now only as a point of contrast to the current fare.

Take Aidan O’Shea, in full beast mode, chasing Paul Cassidy the length of the pitch to force a sideline ball, bellowing encouragement. Ryan O’Donoghue’s relentless tackling, taking on his man with a welcome swagger, shooting scores for fun.

Fenton Kelly again proving that he can mix it at this level. It’s delightful to see the confidence, aggression, and hunger back. We’re not world-beaters yet, but that’s fine. This run has revived hope and pride, feelings absent since our last September visit to Croke Park. And hope and pride are very welcome indeed.

Caveats remain, naturally. Derry, despite Glass’s heroics, were poor, spurning several chances. As did Mayo, who turned down 2-3 in succession before conceding four on the trot. But weathering that storm and responding with a smartly worked goal after the half-time hooter was a joy to watch.

The new rules caused some confusion in the crowd. A couple in front of us, clearly not au fait with the updated rules, were, adamant that the goal should not stand. And they were from Mayo! Others around us joked about the ever-changing rulebook.

“They’ll be bringing in the scrum next,” quipped one. “I think Jordan Flynn was offside for that goal!” exclaimed another. Another lamented, “Once upon a time, the ref only needed a whistle and a notebook.

Now he needs a drum of paint and eyes in the back of his head!” No-one was too upset at the prospect of a day out in Croke Park, should the opportunity present itself.

ON THE ROAD TO CROKER?

But if – if - that happens, let’s hope it’s against Dublin, because no Mayo person in their right mind wants to see sight nor light of Galway unless it is in a Connacht final.

Damien Comer’s return cameo against Dublin showed once again his raw power and killer instinct. No Mayo supporter wants to see that first-hand before the end of March.

And at the risk of sounding like a broken record, in the midst of the positivity, I am still deeply concerned about the sense of panic and chaos that accompanies our kickouts, and how we will deal with that in the white hot heat of championship battle.

But first, Donegal next weekend. If, as expected, Jim McGuinness will go out of his way not to win this game (what an absolute farce), then we may just get the chance to see how we will fare under those kickouts in Croke Park.

An outcome very few would have predicted. But very on-brand for our Mayo.

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